Keeping Your Guitar or Mandolin in Playing Condition
When I started writing these little gems I said I’d try to add some Oklahoma specifics when I could. Most of this piece is very general and applies to any location – but if you look closely you’ll find some Oklahoma history and specifics sprinkled within.
Mandolin and Guitar - Care and Feeding
My first guitar was a May Bell in a cardboard case that had lots of wiggle room, I got a clean rag and stuffed it inside to keep the guitar from floating around. Later I discovered that not only was that a really good move in terms of protecting the guitar, it was also handy for wiping off sweat – I got horribly nervous playing in front of folks, even if it was folk music! A soft clean rag rubbed along the neck, under and over the strings, on the part of the instrument where your pick hits, and especially under the arm pit area goes a long way to keep that instrument looking good.
What you might consider to be the next approach to cleaning is the breath of the owner. You know how you can breathe a bit of haze on a window, do the same on your guitar and then wipe it off. It’s a simple step up with no hazards.
Some times it is helpful to consider the use of a guitar cleaner. I only use products made by guitar companies (Gibson and Martin both have products) and follow the directions. The usual process involves putting the cleaner/polish on a clean cloth first and then using the cloth on the guitar or mandolin. Spraying or flowing the cleaner/polish directly on the body is just messy and not good practice.
If you are dealing with a vintage instrument you want to be extra careful. There is the possibility that the finish will not like the cleaner/polish, so the advice is to test it in a very small and not visible location. Also, if the finish is worn partially or completely, you may not want anything foreign on that location. If there are any cracks in the finish you should avoid getting polish into them. It could cause problems down the road if you want to refinish, and it could leave a visible mark on the wood.
If you’ve bought an old dirty instrument or yours has somehow gotten nasty, you might consider having a repairperson work on it. Whatever you do, avoid the strong cleaners unless you really don’t care about the instrument.
Annual Care and Feeding
There are some things you should probably check annually. For some of you, this could include changing strings! If you really hate changing strings find someone to do it for you. You can find a repair type person who will happily replace strings for a nominal fee – then you can ask them to do the rest of the check up as well.
It doesn’t hurt to clean the fret board, especially if you play regularly and sweat lots. A light rub with 0000 steel wool is all it should need. I rub with the grain, but if there is a lot of crud by the frets you may want to get that off first. Vacuum up the steel wool and vacuum it off the instrument – it can scratch. Some people are more comfortable using the newer synthetic material – makes little difference in my mind.
Then, it doesn’t hurt to oil the fret board with some light lemon oil. Don’t get carried away. I know some folks who do this every time they change strings (and they do it several times in a year), and it just should not need that much, at least not in Oklahoma. Rub on and rub off.
A little dab of oil, 3-in-1 type, on the tuning machines can’t hurt. Use a clean rag, rub it on and clean them up a bit. Do not use a silicon lubricant – you don’t want it on the finish. While you care for the machines it’s a good idea to check the screws to the headstock and secure them if necessary. Be careful not to scratch the instrument if you tighten the nuts around the tuners. There is no need to crank hard on these.
Strings
In terms of care and feeding, wiping off the strings when you’re done playing is about all you can do. Change them when you want to, but do understand that they age like us. Over time they just don’t have the same ring.
The most critical thing to know in terms of strings is which string to use. There is one hard and fast rule – do not use a higher tension or gauge string than is recommended for your instrument! Lots of older guitars have been severely damaged because someone was sure that they would be fine with steel strings though they were built for nylon or gut. Look inside your instrument to see if the label has a notice on string tension and if not, ask a repair person or someone at an instrument store (nothing against chain stores, but personal experience says they know what they sell and not much more).
One last thought, if you change string gauges or tension from what the instrument was intended for, even if you go to a lighter string, it may cause some set up problems – buzzing might be an issue or it could change the playability in a way you did not anticipate. If that happens, change back or take to a repair person. If you find a string you like, and it plays well on the instrument, stay with it. Trying new strings can be like the search for the Fountain of Youth – it won’t make you younger and won’t improve your playing!
And don’t be ashamed to have someone change them for you. You can also ask them to give it a once over and that might be worth the small fee.
Case
Cases are not cheap, especially good ones. If you treat them with some sense of gentleness they will last a long, long time. Occasionally wipe them off with a clean cloth. Use some 3in1 or similar oil on hinges and locking mechanism. It doesn’t hurt to vacuum the inside once in a while as well. We have this strange thing in Oklahoma called “dust”, lots of it, and the case and the instrument can develop a layer.
I just did some major repair work on a case. It had been damaged by someone flinging open the top so the cloth latches that kept it partially open were torn. The owner also had a strap button that gouged the end of the case to pieces. Cases are expensive – be gentle with them and they can serve you a long time.
Control the environment
I have probably said enough about this in the piece on humidity. The simplest and most direct way to say it is that you should treat your instrument with the same feel for environmental stability that you want for yourself – don’t over heat, don’t over cool, let it acclimate if you do change environments (like traveling from Oklahoma to Nebraska).
There are lots of folks who will tell you to leave your instrument out in the open where you can see it. That is supposed to remind you to play it. If you really enjoy your music you don’t need to leave the instrument sitting out as a reminder. I recommend you keep it in the case. Instruments are delicate, light weight for the most part, so it doesn’t take much to knock them off a stand – dog tails, cats chasing the air, little children (and big ones too). Treat it well.
Hibernation
If you plan on putting your instrument to rest for a period of time, get it ready for bed like you would a child. Clean it first. Loosen the strings a couple of turns and as you put it in the case you might pad around the head – just in case. It is probably best stored in an interior closet, but most definitely not in your attic or garage. A case, even a good case, won’t protect it from extreme temperatures in the attic. The more you control the environment the better for the instrument.
Bad things do happen
So, even the best musician, the most careful player, will at some point have a ding or a crack or something else enter their relationship with the guitar or mandolin. For issues that are aesthetic, the ding or scratch, the choice is yours: leave it alone or repair it. If you decide to repair it yourself know that there are lots of types of finish and you might want to do some research before hand. A repair person will likely test the finish before they start any work on it.
If the damage is structural I would suggest you visit your local repair person. I say that not because I enjoy doing repair work on guitars and mandolins, but for two reasons. First, structural damage in one part of the instrument weakens the whole. If you’ve ever had a twisted ankle you know how after a day or two your hip or shoulder starts to hurt? Same type thing goes on. The second reason is that, unless you regularly do woodwork, guitar repair and mandolin repair are special cases. It’s not the same as a broken leg on a chair. Instruments aren’t furniture. If you botch it, you could easily create an impossible situation for the repair person. I have a picture on my site that shows a few screws and some strap iron holding together a broken headstock – the result was I had to rebuild a head stock as the original was not salvageable. Get a loaner to play and take your injured friend to the repair person.
I’ve recently worked on two nylon string guitars that had hit the floor hard. It happens! One of these belongs to an Oklahoma City guitar teacher. He got it to me quickly and as a result it was a relatively easy structural repair. He was not concerned about refinishing so I did a “structural refinish” – making sure there were no chips that would fall out or cut him as he plays.
Festivals
I never knew there were so many festivals! We’re not talking one a week, but within the state of Oklahoma we have many really great opportunities for festivals and jams every weekend in every corner of the state. So enjoy with three thoughts in mind. First, take care of your instrument and maybe consider taking your old banged up one to the festival rather than your brand new, fresh out of the case gem. Keep it out of direct sunlight and out of the rain (need that be said?) Second, you don’t have to let others play it. It’s not rude or impolite to say “No, I’m just not comfortable with other folks playing my guitar or mandolin.” Good folks will understand.
Lastly, keep it with you. Every time I’m out of the state I’m reminded how good most folks are in Oklahoma - nice, friendly, decent people. But you probably don’t let your kids run loose in crowded places, or your dog, so keep your instrument close and have a good time.
Ed Cunliff, MandoAiki
You are welcome to use this article on your website, blog, or in your newsletter as long as you include this complete credit line:
Copyright 2008 Ed Cunliff.
Mandolin and Guitar - Care and Feeding
My first guitar was a May Bell in a cardboard case that had lots of wiggle room, I got a clean rag and stuffed it inside to keep the guitar from floating around. Later I discovered that not only was that a really good move in terms of protecting the guitar, it was also handy for wiping off sweat – I got horribly nervous playing in front of folks, even if it was folk music! A soft clean rag rubbed along the neck, under and over the strings, on the part of the instrument where your pick hits, and especially under the arm pit area goes a long way to keep that instrument looking good.
What you might consider to be the next approach to cleaning is the breath of the owner. You know how you can breathe a bit of haze on a window, do the same on your guitar and then wipe it off. It’s a simple step up with no hazards.
Some times it is helpful to consider the use of a guitar cleaner. I only use products made by guitar companies (Gibson and Martin both have products) and follow the directions. The usual process involves putting the cleaner/polish on a clean cloth first and then using the cloth on the guitar or mandolin. Spraying or flowing the cleaner/polish directly on the body is just messy and not good practice.
If you are dealing with a vintage instrument you want to be extra careful. There is the possibility that the finish will not like the cleaner/polish, so the advice is to test it in a very small and not visible location. Also, if the finish is worn partially or completely, you may not want anything foreign on that location. If there are any cracks in the finish you should avoid getting polish into them. It could cause problems down the road if you want to refinish, and it could leave a visible mark on the wood.
If you’ve bought an old dirty instrument or yours has somehow gotten nasty, you might consider having a repairperson work on it. Whatever you do, avoid the strong cleaners unless you really don’t care about the instrument.
Annual Care and Feeding
There are some things you should probably check annually. For some of you, this could include changing strings! If you really hate changing strings find someone to do it for you. You can find a repair type person who will happily replace strings for a nominal fee – then you can ask them to do the rest of the check up as well.
It doesn’t hurt to clean the fret board, especially if you play regularly and sweat lots. A light rub with 0000 steel wool is all it should need. I rub with the grain, but if there is a lot of crud by the frets you may want to get that off first. Vacuum up the steel wool and vacuum it off the instrument – it can scratch. Some people are more comfortable using the newer synthetic material – makes little difference in my mind.
Then, it doesn’t hurt to oil the fret board with some light lemon oil. Don’t get carried away. I know some folks who do this every time they change strings (and they do it several times in a year), and it just should not need that much, at least not in Oklahoma. Rub on and rub off.
A little dab of oil, 3-in-1 type, on the tuning machines can’t hurt. Use a clean rag, rub it on and clean them up a bit. Do not use a silicon lubricant – you don’t want it on the finish. While you care for the machines it’s a good idea to check the screws to the headstock and secure them if necessary. Be careful not to scratch the instrument if you tighten the nuts around the tuners. There is no need to crank hard on these.
Strings
In terms of care and feeding, wiping off the strings when you’re done playing is about all you can do. Change them when you want to, but do understand that they age like us. Over time they just don’t have the same ring.
The most critical thing to know in terms of strings is which string to use. There is one hard and fast rule – do not use a higher tension or gauge string than is recommended for your instrument! Lots of older guitars have been severely damaged because someone was sure that they would be fine with steel strings though they were built for nylon or gut. Look inside your instrument to see if the label has a notice on string tension and if not, ask a repair person or someone at an instrument store (nothing against chain stores, but personal experience says they know what they sell and not much more).
One last thought, if you change string gauges or tension from what the instrument was intended for, even if you go to a lighter string, it may cause some set up problems – buzzing might be an issue or it could change the playability in a way you did not anticipate. If that happens, change back or take to a repair person. If you find a string you like, and it plays well on the instrument, stay with it. Trying new strings can be like the search for the Fountain of Youth – it won’t make you younger and won’t improve your playing!
And don’t be ashamed to have someone change them for you. You can also ask them to give it a once over and that might be worth the small fee.
Case
Cases are not cheap, especially good ones. If you treat them with some sense of gentleness they will last a long, long time. Occasionally wipe them off with a clean cloth. Use some 3in1 or similar oil on hinges and locking mechanism. It doesn’t hurt to vacuum the inside once in a while as well. We have this strange thing in Oklahoma called “dust”, lots of it, and the case and the instrument can develop a layer.
I just did some major repair work on a case. It had been damaged by someone flinging open the top so the cloth latches that kept it partially open were torn. The owner also had a strap button that gouged the end of the case to pieces. Cases are expensive – be gentle with them and they can serve you a long time.
Control the environment
I have probably said enough about this in the piece on humidity. The simplest and most direct way to say it is that you should treat your instrument with the same feel for environmental stability that you want for yourself – don’t over heat, don’t over cool, let it acclimate if you do change environments (like traveling from Oklahoma to Nebraska).
There are lots of folks who will tell you to leave your instrument out in the open where you can see it. That is supposed to remind you to play it. If you really enjoy your music you don’t need to leave the instrument sitting out as a reminder. I recommend you keep it in the case. Instruments are delicate, light weight for the most part, so it doesn’t take much to knock them off a stand – dog tails, cats chasing the air, little children (and big ones too). Treat it well.
Hibernation
If you plan on putting your instrument to rest for a period of time, get it ready for bed like you would a child. Clean it first. Loosen the strings a couple of turns and as you put it in the case you might pad around the head – just in case. It is probably best stored in an interior closet, but most definitely not in your attic or garage. A case, even a good case, won’t protect it from extreme temperatures in the attic. The more you control the environment the better for the instrument.
Bad things do happen
So, even the best musician, the most careful player, will at some point have a ding or a crack or something else enter their relationship with the guitar or mandolin. For issues that are aesthetic, the ding or scratch, the choice is yours: leave it alone or repair it. If you decide to repair it yourself know that there are lots of types of finish and you might want to do some research before hand. A repair person will likely test the finish before they start any work on it.
If the damage is structural I would suggest you visit your local repair person. I say that not because I enjoy doing repair work on guitars and mandolins, but for two reasons. First, structural damage in one part of the instrument weakens the whole. If you’ve ever had a twisted ankle you know how after a day or two your hip or shoulder starts to hurt? Same type thing goes on. The second reason is that, unless you regularly do woodwork, guitar repair and mandolin repair are special cases. It’s not the same as a broken leg on a chair. Instruments aren’t furniture. If you botch it, you could easily create an impossible situation for the repair person. I have a picture on my site that shows a few screws and some strap iron holding together a broken headstock – the result was I had to rebuild a head stock as the original was not salvageable. Get a loaner to play and take your injured friend to the repair person.
I’ve recently worked on two nylon string guitars that had hit the floor hard. It happens! One of these belongs to an Oklahoma City guitar teacher. He got it to me quickly and as a result it was a relatively easy structural repair. He was not concerned about refinishing so I did a “structural refinish” – making sure there were no chips that would fall out or cut him as he plays.
Festivals
I never knew there were so many festivals! We’re not talking one a week, but within the state of Oklahoma we have many really great opportunities for festivals and jams every weekend in every corner of the state. So enjoy with three thoughts in mind. First, take care of your instrument and maybe consider taking your old banged up one to the festival rather than your brand new, fresh out of the case gem. Keep it out of direct sunlight and out of the rain (need that be said?) Second, you don’t have to let others play it. It’s not rude or impolite to say “No, I’m just not comfortable with other folks playing my guitar or mandolin.” Good folks will understand.
Lastly, keep it with you. Every time I’m out of the state I’m reminded how good most folks are in Oklahoma - nice, friendly, decent people. But you probably don’t let your kids run loose in crowded places, or your dog, so keep your instrument close and have a good time.
Ed Cunliff, MandoAiki
You are welcome to use this article on your website, blog, or in your newsletter as long as you include this complete credit line:
Copyright 2008 Ed Cunliff.
