Buying Your Child's First Guitar or First Mandolin
I recently sold a guitar that I had repaired to a woman buying her daughter’s first guitar. It was pretty exciting for the young girl, new and strange for the mom, and brought back memories of my efforts with my youngest son. So, these thoughts will hopefully make the experience a bit easier for the next parent trying to help their child find the first mandolin or guitar. If you are buying for an older person, a parent or friend who has decided they want to play guitar, these same ideas apply. If you’re in a hurry, go straight to the checklist at the end of this article. (This is written more for the non player who does not bring experience, and several extra instruments, into the picture.)
A builder is likely to consider four issues as they build: structure (the engineering of the instrument), the acoustics (the sound they are producing), the aesthetics (how it looks), and the playability (how comfortable it is to play). While all are important to the builder, or repair person, that’s probably not true for the parent or child.
So, what would you guess is most important to the child? You’re probably right if you said “looks”. “Looks rule”, until they start to play, then the issue is going to be more similar to the parents concern – how comfortable is it to play.
Playability
Comfort - Size and weight, and how the instrument fits the player’s body is a first consideration. In an effort to find a smaller guitar for my son we ended up with an electric guitar – but it turned out to be too heavy, and we had to get an amp. There are smaller bodied acoustic guitars available, old and new. Have the player hold it (but be careful not to scratch the back with a belt buckle or zipper). Does it fit? How does the arm feel over the body?
Neck width – Too wide a neck is not a problem with the mandolin. Mandolin necks are narrow and reach is generally not a concern. If you are buying for someone with large hands and fingers there may be an issue, but with some practice it’s overcome. There are slight variations in neck width, but the real deciding factor is the feel of comfort for the player.
In the guitar world, the width of the neck is fairly standard – two choices: classical or steel. Classical, or nylon stringed guitars usually have wider necks than steel strings, but I have seen some with necks not much wider than a steel string guitar neck. Have the player move their fingers around the neck and press down on the strings. How does it sit in the palm of the hand? Do the arm and wrist appear relaxed? Ideally they can reach all the strings comfortably.
String type – In Oklahoma it seems as though most people love bluegrass music and steel string guitars are a part of that.
However, with kids or older fingers (especially arthritic fingers) nylon string guitars may be the way to go. The strings are
easier on the fingers and easier to press down to the fret board. There is nothing comparable on the mandolin side that I’m
aware of, but you can use the lightest strings you can find for greater comfort (or just four strings like on some electric
mandolins).
It is worth pointing out, that nylon strings and classical guitars are versatile and acceptable. One of Oklahoma City’s most popular guitarists, Edgar Cruz, plays with nylon strings on a classical guitar. Nylon strings are also used on “folk” guitars and Mariachi and Spanish - so keep an open mind and open up options for the person you’re buying for.
Action – “Action” is the term used to describe the height of the string above the 12th fret from the nut or headstock. It used to be that with low cost instruments you were likely to have high actions and thus they were harder to play. That’s not necessarily always the case any more. But whether or not you are looking for a new or used instrument, beware that the ability to press the string to the fret board is critical in terms of sound and hand comfort. I have adjusted the action on brand new and medium costs instruments that changed them from painful to playful. The good news is, if you end up with an instrument with bad action, you can usually have it adjusted at a reasonable price. If you are buying new, make sure they adjust if for you or find a repair technician on the web.
Action is adjusted at the saddle and the nut – so know that just looking at the height at the 12th fret isn’t all you need to do. In fact, a new player may never get past playing on the lower frets on their first instrument. What you will see at the nut end is that the first fret is either easy (that’s OK) or hard (not OK) to press the strings to the fret board.
Frets – Frets are the metal pieces that mark the space along the neck for making different notes. Frets can be a source of buzz. If you are buying a used instrument and the frets are worn or uneven, but if there is no buzz I wouldn’t worry about the fret condition except for one other thing – run your hand along the side of the neck. If the frets are sticking out and scratch your hand they will do so the same to the player. If the seller can fix it fine, otherwise you probably will want this corrected by a repair person. Fret cuts can be nasty.
Looks
Let’s face it, looks may be the most important thing to your child, or your older friend. What looks good to me may not appeal to another. I like the look and feel of wood grain, but most builders will look for smooth finishes. I’m biased towards older instruments that show some wear – gives them character like the wrinkles on a face. But you’re buying for someone else, so do what you can to please them when it comes to looks – I built a pink electric guitar for a friend’s daughter once! She liked it.
Don’t worry about pick guards unless you’re buying used and it’s all curled up. This could mean that it’s shrinking and could crack the top of an acoustic guitar. That may not be devastating on an inexpensive instrument, but the purpose of a pick guard is to protect the top.
From the financial perspective, if you are purchasing a new instrument and there are some finish problems, sometimes even a simple scratch, you should ask for a discount. Unless the appearance is really bad and will negatively impact the value from the receivers end, save yourself some money. I bought a very nice mandolin once at a significant discount due to a crack in the finish – it has no effect on the sound or playability.
Structure
With a beginner instrument there probably are not too many worries in terms of structure. You are not buying something that will be an heirloom. If the guitar or mandolin is new there should be no worries. If you see something that looks like a crack or a ding, ask he seller – you may be able to get a price reduction.
If you are looking at an old instrument and it has a crack ask the seller about it and use your logic. If it’s real nasty, leave it alone. Most cracks can be repaired without a great deal of expense, but that depends on where it is on the instrument.
Straight neck – Almost any article on buying a guitar or mandolin will tell you to sight the neck to see that it’s straight.
While this is generally true with used or new instruments, I still think the biggest concern (if it’s an inexpensive beginner instrument) is that it is playable on the first five frets. When a player progress past that point, and many never do, then the straight neck is essential
Buzzing
– As mentioned before, buzzing can be an issue. If the action is too low you may have a fret buzz, where the strings
are hitting against the frets as they vibrate. There are many other causes to buzzing, so unless you can have this fixed by the seller, just stay away from it. Fret work, on both new and used instruments, can get expensive. It can drive you crazy and makes learning to get a clean sound almost impossible.
If there is some damage that might injure the player then leave it alone. I sometimes do what I call “structural cosmetics” where I will insure that a finish crack won’t jab into the player. It’s not a true refinish, which can be very time consuming and expensive, but it gets the job done and protects the owner.
Acoustics
The sounds of a guitar or mandolin are very subjective – you either like it or you don’t. In a beginning instrument you want it to sound good to you, and beyond that - who cares.
If you purchase an electric or an acoustic/electric (can be played either with or without an amp), make sure you check the electronics. Here again, it is pretty subjective. Have the seller play it for a bit with the electronics on – if it hums, crackles, or does nothing, then you may want to move on to another or have it fixed before you buy it. Make sure you understand what it will take for it to work – an acoustic with a pre-amp will require a battery for instance. Don’t forget to get an amp if
you want to hear the instrument electronically.
Used or new
Should you buy new or used? The advantages of new are the possibility of a warranty on the instrument, a place to go with
questions (unless you buy on line), and perhaps a place to resell or trade up later on depending upon the continued interest of the player. With an older or used instrument, you generally get what you get, especially with an individual seller. If you buy from a shop you may get the chance for a longer relationship to resell, trade, etc., but not always. The biggest advantage of buying used from an independent seller is you should expect to pay less than you would for a comparable
instrument from a shop or online.
You should understand the word “vintage” before you start buying as well. The term is frequently used in instruments these days to describe not just the age, but the possibility of a financial investment. In other words, you could be looking at something that’s high priced. It’s similar to what happened to the word “antique” – that used to mean something 100
years old and perhaps of value. “Vintage” may get you into a category of instrument that is considered valuable because of either its age or the era in which it was built.
Regardless of where you do your shopping, be a smart consumer
Case and gig bag
I’m big on taking care of things to the best of my ability. That means that any instrument I care about is in a gig bag or a case. Unfortunately, if you are trying to stay on the low end of the price range, a case could cost as much s the instrument and even some gig bags are pricey.
Consider gig bags and cases on a continuum in terms of price and protection offered. Some gig bags are so thin that you might as well wrap the instrument in a paper bag. The danger with the really thin gig bags is that you think you have protection when you don’t. This can lead to careless behavior and serious damage to the instrument. Padded gig bags are better, but have another problem as with the thin bags – the instrument is not held solidly but tends to float in the bag, and this can lead to damage.
In the middle you have cardboard cases, and watch out as some people call these hard shells – they are not. The biggest problems I’ve seen with cardboard cases are that the instruments do not fit well. Slipping and sliding is not good for
the instrument. This can be remedied here, but not in gig bags, by inserting some rags or towels to fill up the empty space enough to keep the instrument from bouncing around. You do not want the head of the instrument bouncing around.
Hard shell cases come in a variety of types and materials. Even on small bodied mandolins these will cost a minimum of $40 and can go as high as several hundred dollars. The main issue on these is the fit of the instrument. It is more common to come across the loose fit which is easily remedied, but you can also get too tight a fit. This usually occurs in terms of
the depth. If, as you close the case, it needs pushing to close this could mean that you are squeezing down on the bridge and the top of the instrument – not a good thing. You can test this at a store. If you buy online try to get measurements first – you may have to contact the seller directly as many online stores do not provide measurements as a general rule.
You don’t have to have a case. Arguably, if you are dealing with a child, it’s a good opportunity to teach them how to care for something. A much safer learning situation than a little puppy!
Price Range
This is for mom and dad. As a builder I hate to admit it, but you can find good beginning guitars for under $150 and learning mandolins for about the same. These are usually built in China and they are not a bad way to start. In the USA a builder probably can’t get raw materials for less. Spending more doesn’t guarantee a better instrument. Consider the items discussed above, and your own budget.
Once you get past the beginner stage, there are a lot of luthiers in the US making custom instruments at affordable prices – and at very high prices. Support your local luthier!
Final Thoughts
My dad loaned me money to buy my first guitar. He then made the mistake of offering to pay for lessons as long as I wanted – being a slow learner that went on for about three years! It could have lasted only one week. Whether
you are buying for an adult or a child, enjoy the process even if it doesn’t produce a great musician. You are offering an opportunity for great joy and creativity – while you’re at it, how about picking up a bass for yourself!
A builder is likely to consider four issues as they build: structure (the engineering of the instrument), the acoustics (the sound they are producing), the aesthetics (how it looks), and the playability (how comfortable it is to play). While all are important to the builder, or repair person, that’s probably not true for the parent or child.
So, what would you guess is most important to the child? You’re probably right if you said “looks”. “Looks rule”, until they start to play, then the issue is going to be more similar to the parents concern – how comfortable is it to play.
Playability
Comfort - Size and weight, and how the instrument fits the player’s body is a first consideration. In an effort to find a smaller guitar for my son we ended up with an electric guitar – but it turned out to be too heavy, and we had to get an amp. There are smaller bodied acoustic guitars available, old and new. Have the player hold it (but be careful not to scratch the back with a belt buckle or zipper). Does it fit? How does the arm feel over the body?
Neck width – Too wide a neck is not a problem with the mandolin. Mandolin necks are narrow and reach is generally not a concern. If you are buying for someone with large hands and fingers there may be an issue, but with some practice it’s overcome. There are slight variations in neck width, but the real deciding factor is the feel of comfort for the player.
In the guitar world, the width of the neck is fairly standard – two choices: classical or steel. Classical, or nylon stringed guitars usually have wider necks than steel strings, but I have seen some with necks not much wider than a steel string guitar neck. Have the player move their fingers around the neck and press down on the strings. How does it sit in the palm of the hand? Do the arm and wrist appear relaxed? Ideally they can reach all the strings comfortably.
String type – In Oklahoma it seems as though most people love bluegrass music and steel string guitars are a part of that.
However, with kids or older fingers (especially arthritic fingers) nylon string guitars may be the way to go. The strings are
easier on the fingers and easier to press down to the fret board. There is nothing comparable on the mandolin side that I’m
aware of, but you can use the lightest strings you can find for greater comfort (or just four strings like on some electric
mandolins).
It is worth pointing out, that nylon strings and classical guitars are versatile and acceptable. One of Oklahoma City’s most popular guitarists, Edgar Cruz, plays with nylon strings on a classical guitar. Nylon strings are also used on “folk” guitars and Mariachi and Spanish - so keep an open mind and open up options for the person you’re buying for.
Action – “Action” is the term used to describe the height of the string above the 12th fret from the nut or headstock. It used to be that with low cost instruments you were likely to have high actions and thus they were harder to play. That’s not necessarily always the case any more. But whether or not you are looking for a new or used instrument, beware that the ability to press the string to the fret board is critical in terms of sound and hand comfort. I have adjusted the action on brand new and medium costs instruments that changed them from painful to playful. The good news is, if you end up with an instrument with bad action, you can usually have it adjusted at a reasonable price. If you are buying new, make sure they adjust if for you or find a repair technician on the web.
Action is adjusted at the saddle and the nut – so know that just looking at the height at the 12th fret isn’t all you need to do. In fact, a new player may never get past playing on the lower frets on their first instrument. What you will see at the nut end is that the first fret is either easy (that’s OK) or hard (not OK) to press the strings to the fret board.
Frets – Frets are the metal pieces that mark the space along the neck for making different notes. Frets can be a source of buzz. If you are buying a used instrument and the frets are worn or uneven, but if there is no buzz I wouldn’t worry about the fret condition except for one other thing – run your hand along the side of the neck. If the frets are sticking out and scratch your hand they will do so the same to the player. If the seller can fix it fine, otherwise you probably will want this corrected by a repair person. Fret cuts can be nasty.
Looks
Let’s face it, looks may be the most important thing to your child, or your older friend. What looks good to me may not appeal to another. I like the look and feel of wood grain, but most builders will look for smooth finishes. I’m biased towards older instruments that show some wear – gives them character like the wrinkles on a face. But you’re buying for someone else, so do what you can to please them when it comes to looks – I built a pink electric guitar for a friend’s daughter once! She liked it.
Don’t worry about pick guards unless you’re buying used and it’s all curled up. This could mean that it’s shrinking and could crack the top of an acoustic guitar. That may not be devastating on an inexpensive instrument, but the purpose of a pick guard is to protect the top.
From the financial perspective, if you are purchasing a new instrument and there are some finish problems, sometimes even a simple scratch, you should ask for a discount. Unless the appearance is really bad and will negatively impact the value from the receivers end, save yourself some money. I bought a very nice mandolin once at a significant discount due to a crack in the finish – it has no effect on the sound or playability.
Structure
With a beginner instrument there probably are not too many worries in terms of structure. You are not buying something that will be an heirloom. If the guitar or mandolin is new there should be no worries. If you see something that looks like a crack or a ding, ask he seller – you may be able to get a price reduction.
If you are looking at an old instrument and it has a crack ask the seller about it and use your logic. If it’s real nasty, leave it alone. Most cracks can be repaired without a great deal of expense, but that depends on where it is on the instrument.
Straight neck – Almost any article on buying a guitar or mandolin will tell you to sight the neck to see that it’s straight.
While this is generally true with used or new instruments, I still think the biggest concern (if it’s an inexpensive beginner instrument) is that it is playable on the first five frets. When a player progress past that point, and many never do, then the straight neck is essential
Buzzing
– As mentioned before, buzzing can be an issue. If the action is too low you may have a fret buzz, where the strings
are hitting against the frets as they vibrate. There are many other causes to buzzing, so unless you can have this fixed by the seller, just stay away from it. Fret work, on both new and used instruments, can get expensive. It can drive you crazy and makes learning to get a clean sound almost impossible.
If there is some damage that might injure the player then leave it alone. I sometimes do what I call “structural cosmetics” where I will insure that a finish crack won’t jab into the player. It’s not a true refinish, which can be very time consuming and expensive, but it gets the job done and protects the owner.
Acoustics
The sounds of a guitar or mandolin are very subjective – you either like it or you don’t. In a beginning instrument you want it to sound good to you, and beyond that - who cares.
If you purchase an electric or an acoustic/electric (can be played either with or without an amp), make sure you check the electronics. Here again, it is pretty subjective. Have the seller play it for a bit with the electronics on – if it hums, crackles, or does nothing, then you may want to move on to another or have it fixed before you buy it. Make sure you understand what it will take for it to work – an acoustic with a pre-amp will require a battery for instance. Don’t forget to get an amp if
you want to hear the instrument electronically.
Used or new
Should you buy new or used? The advantages of new are the possibility of a warranty on the instrument, a place to go with
questions (unless you buy on line), and perhaps a place to resell or trade up later on depending upon the continued interest of the player. With an older or used instrument, you generally get what you get, especially with an individual seller. If you buy from a shop you may get the chance for a longer relationship to resell, trade, etc., but not always. The biggest advantage of buying used from an independent seller is you should expect to pay less than you would for a comparable
instrument from a shop or online.
You should understand the word “vintage” before you start buying as well. The term is frequently used in instruments these days to describe not just the age, but the possibility of a financial investment. In other words, you could be looking at something that’s high priced. It’s similar to what happened to the word “antique” – that used to mean something 100
years old and perhaps of value. “Vintage” may get you into a category of instrument that is considered valuable because of either its age or the era in which it was built.
Regardless of where you do your shopping, be a smart consumer
Case and gig bag
I’m big on taking care of things to the best of my ability. That means that any instrument I care about is in a gig bag or a case. Unfortunately, if you are trying to stay on the low end of the price range, a case could cost as much s the instrument and even some gig bags are pricey.
Consider gig bags and cases on a continuum in terms of price and protection offered. Some gig bags are so thin that you might as well wrap the instrument in a paper bag. The danger with the really thin gig bags is that you think you have protection when you don’t. This can lead to careless behavior and serious damage to the instrument. Padded gig bags are better, but have another problem as with the thin bags – the instrument is not held solidly but tends to float in the bag, and this can lead to damage.
In the middle you have cardboard cases, and watch out as some people call these hard shells – they are not. The biggest problems I’ve seen with cardboard cases are that the instruments do not fit well. Slipping and sliding is not good for
the instrument. This can be remedied here, but not in gig bags, by inserting some rags or towels to fill up the empty space enough to keep the instrument from bouncing around. You do not want the head of the instrument bouncing around.
Hard shell cases come in a variety of types and materials. Even on small bodied mandolins these will cost a minimum of $40 and can go as high as several hundred dollars. The main issue on these is the fit of the instrument. It is more common to come across the loose fit which is easily remedied, but you can also get too tight a fit. This usually occurs in terms of
the depth. If, as you close the case, it needs pushing to close this could mean that you are squeezing down on the bridge and the top of the instrument – not a good thing. You can test this at a store. If you buy online try to get measurements first – you may have to contact the seller directly as many online stores do not provide measurements as a general rule.
You don’t have to have a case. Arguably, if you are dealing with a child, it’s a good opportunity to teach them how to care for something. A much safer learning situation than a little puppy!
Price Range
This is for mom and dad. As a builder I hate to admit it, but you can find good beginning guitars for under $150 and learning mandolins for about the same. These are usually built in China and they are not a bad way to start. In the USA a builder probably can’t get raw materials for less. Spending more doesn’t guarantee a better instrument. Consider the items discussed above, and your own budget.
Once you get past the beginner stage, there are a lot of luthiers in the US making custom instruments at affordable prices – and at very high prices. Support your local luthier!
Final Thoughts
My dad loaned me money to buy my first guitar. He then made the mistake of offering to pay for lessons as long as I wanted – being a slow learner that went on for about three years! It could have lasted only one week. Whether
you are buying for an adult or a child, enjoy the process even if it doesn’t produce a great musician. You are offering an opportunity for great joy and creativity – while you’re at it, how about picking up a bass for yourself!
First Guitar or First Mandolin Checklist
Comfort
Fits the body
Fits the hands
Frets don’t scratch along the side of the neck
Playable
Comfortable pressing strings down
Strings feel OK to press
Structure
Neck looks straight
No buzzing on any fret when you press the strings
Looks
Love it or Like
New or used it still looks good
Acoustics
Sounds good to me
Price
Comfortable on the wallet or purse
Ed Cunliff, MandoAiki
You are welcome to use this article on your website, blog, or in your newsletter as long as you include this complete credit line: Copyright 2008 Ed Cunliff.
Comfort
Fits the body
Fits the hands
Frets don’t scratch along the side of the neck
Playable
Comfortable pressing strings down
Strings feel OK to press
Structure
Neck looks straight
No buzzing on any fret when you press the strings
Looks
Love it or Like
New or used it still looks good
Acoustics
Sounds good to me
Price
Comfortable on the wallet or purse
Ed Cunliff, MandoAiki
You are welcome to use this article on your website, blog, or in your newsletter as long as you include this complete credit line: Copyright 2008 Ed Cunliff.
